Ultra Countertops of Santa Barbara
40 Aero Camino
805-961-9100 Goleta, CA 93117
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FAQS / RECYCLED
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Sustainable, 'Green', Recycled Corian? YES! Durable, easy to maintain, and low-emitting, DuPont™ Corian® solid surfaces helps your projects achieve LEED® credits and can contribute to your sustainable design goals in a variety of commercial applications. Suitable for both horizontal and vertical applications, Corian® combines beauty and performance with a range of environmental benefits that can help contribute to: MR Credit 1.3 - Building Reuse MR Credits 3.1 and 3.2 - Materials Reuse MR Credit 5.1 and 5.2 - Regional Materials EQ Credit 4.1 - Low Emitting Materials: Adhesives & Sealants Corian®, and the adhesives and sealants used in its fabrication and installation are Greenguard Indoor Air Quality Certified® as low emitting materials. Corian®'s new Terra Collection offers 27 colors certified by Scientific Certification Systems (SCS) to contain pre-consumer recycled content. Terra Collection colors can contribute to MR Credits 4.1 and 4.2 for Recycled Content. To see the Terra Collection, please http://www2.dupont.com/Surfaces_Commercial/en_US/products/corian/terra_collection_colors.html |
1. What material should I use for my kitchen countertops?
*Please scroll down for an in-depth answer.
2. Does Corian® require special sealing?
*Corian requires no sealing, special or otherwise. Corian® countertops are popular in hospitals because they're hypoallergenic, and highly advisable for kitchen countertops, especially with a custom coved back splash.
3. Is Corian® heat-resistant?
*Yes - at 212 ºF (100C) and lower. You never want to set a blazing hot pan or pot directly on a Corian countertop. We recommend keeping hot pans and pots off Corian. That's what trivet are ffor. To that end, we offer FREE trivets in the same color as your new counter top, to put hot pans upon. If your kitchen countertops sustain heat damage, they are usually repairable. We can place metal hot pot rods in your countertop, next to your stove, to protect from damage caused by hot pots placed on it (see picture on our home page).
4. Is Corian® stain-resistant?
*Yes! Naturally non-porous and non-absorbent, Corian is almost impervious to staining. "Stains" in Corian aren't really stains, not in the conventional sense. A stain in Corian is generally attributable to a buildup of dust, dirt, soap scum, spilled liquids, etc., that settles into microscopic scratches on the countertop's surface and dries. Grab a green Scotchbrite pad, smooth out the rough spots, and watch the "stain" vanish.
5. What are my color choices for Corian®?
*Corian comes in more than 100 colors - and you can see images of every one on the Corian website. If you'd like to see samples. an even better way is in our showroom and shop at 40 Aero Camino in Goleta. We've got hundreds of samples, and usually, bigger pieces of almost all colors.
6. How do I clean my Corian®?
Quickly and easily, that's how. Corian® countertops require little maintenance, especially with the coved backsplash option. Corian is non-porous, which means easy cleanup. Soap and warm water works, as well as any ammonia-based cleaners. No seams to collect dirt/debris means you'll spend less time cleaning and more time enjoying your new countertops.
7. Are Corian® sinks available?
Yes, and they can be seamlessly integrated into your bath or kitchen countertops.
8. Why can't I see the joints?
When applied, clamped, and allowed to dry, Corian®'s patented color-matched joint adhesive essentially fuses distinct pieces of Corian into one. The way it works is amazing. We'll show you while you're here.
1. What material should I use for my kitchen countertops?
Your choices are:
1) Solid Surface Acrylic, such as DuPont Corian® or LG-Hi Macs®.
2) Laminate
3) Tile
4) Stainless Steel, Copper, and Zinc
5) Concrete or Cement
6) Soapstone and Slate
7) Granite
8) Engineered Stone
9) Wood (i.e. butcher block)
Marble is generally not recommended for use in kitchens
1) SOLID SURFACE ACRYLIC (SSA): First, Corian® and Hi Macs® are non-porous or 99.9999% non-porous, which results in a material that consistently demonstrates a high resistant to stains. I tested this claim one day by sticking a random piece of white Corian in a big cup of Betadyne (iodine)® -- a stain-producer if ever there was one. The Corian sat covered in Betadyne until the next day. Thorough rinsing showed no stain "waves goodbye to Betadyne" Gone, without a trace. That convinced me. Other solid surface brands - those made with polyester - are porous and will stain.
Second, SSA is restorable. Scratches happen, but can be sanded out with relative ease. Try that with granite, or engineered stone, like Caesarstone. In general, engineered stone is harder to scratch than Corian, but when engineered stone does scratch - and I have seen our fabricators do it without trying (cringing at the $$$$mistake) - be prepared to live with it. Unless you have it repaired by professionals. This type of repair is too detailed to go into here, but it's a lot more involved than removing scratches from Corian® or any other SSA. Even then, some scratches in ES just can't be fixed.
With SSA, a green scotch bright pad and elbow grease sands out surface scratches. You can also use a finishing sander and a fine, or very fine, grade of sandpaper, like 9 micron or p600 and higher. Even I can sand scratches out, so anyone can do it, and do it in a reasonable amount of time. ES and granite, being so hard, take much longer to repair, if repair is possible.
Corian® provides seamless integration with Corian® sinks for a clean, smooth look. Seamless means that when two pieces of Corian® (same color, of course) are glued together, the seam is impossible to detect. Dupont's adhesives are color-matched to the colors of Corian®, so visually, it all blends together to look like one piece - a major advantage with solid surface countertops. SSA allows for coved backsplashes, which are aesthetically pleasing and hygenic. No silicon seams where mold can grow, true for the seamless sinks also.
Certain colors of Corian® come in quarter-inch thickness, used mainly as shower walls and tub surrounds. All 50-odd colors of LG-Hi Macs® are available in quarter inch, useful in bathroom color coordination. The default finish on SSA is matte, or non-reflective. If you opt for a high-gloss finish, it will likely be an upgrade, and cost more. It's all sanding, sanding, and more, up to about 4000 grit, which almost feels like rubber. Darker colors show high-gloss better than light colors, and ditto for scratches.
Corian® comes in more than 100 colors. Great for some folks, too much for others. If you start agonizing over colors, well, you're not alone. Every Wednesday morning for six weeks last summer, a lady in her late 70's came in and spent a few hours going over colors, comparing floor tile samples. Every week, she'd carry off a box full of samples and haul them back the next, bless her anxiety-filled indecisive little heart. We finally narrowed it down to five or six colors. I wasn't present when she announced the color contest winner, which turned out to be way different than any color she'd considered. I couldn't believe it! But she loved her new countertop, and that's what counted.
2) LAMINATE: Pre-fabricated laminate is the least expensive countertop option. Laminate is made by binding layers of printed paper and resin under high pressure to create a rigid sheet that can be cut, shaped, and glued onto medium-density fiberboard. Both Formica and Wilsonart offer styles that mimic natural stone, metal, and wood.
Higher-end laminates like Formica's ColorCore® are melamine-based. Retains surface color throughout the sheet, which makes nicks and scratches less visible. That eliminates the brown edge where two sheets meet at an angle, especially where the countertop sheet meets the edge strip.
My note: Laminate has been around a long time, the color selection is excellent, but it can burn. It is stain resistant. Since the material is so thin, repairs are almost impossible. Solid surface and custom laminate countertops are often comparable in price.
3) TILE: Because tile itself is infinitely varied, tile counters can adapt to any kitchen style -- from high-tech (factory-made porcelain tiles) to French provincial (hand-painted terra-cotta). Even inexpensive mass-produced tiles can be combined in whimsical, original patterns that reflect your taste. Tile is also one of the few counter choices that a handy homeowner can install easily. (Setting tile requires time and attention to detail, but it's not particularly difficult.)
Tile is impervious to heat, but can scratch. It's essential to use glazed tiles for bath or kitchen countertops - they won't stain, but the grout will, unless periodically sealed with a grout sealer. Tile is hard and unforgiving on china and glassware. Handmade tiles can make for an uneven surface, but the charm might outweigh the occasional wobbly wine glass. Or consider combining a tile backsplash with some other countertop material.
My note: Tile is difficult to scratch, but depends on the individual tile. Lots of sizes, colors and styles. A tile-tear out is a job from hell; our fabricators/installers hate it. If you decide to remodel, this would add time and expense to the project. If the tiles crack, an infrequent, but no means unheard of event, you can either live with it, or get ready for a messy, and possibly difficult, repair. The major sore point on tile, which I've heard a thousand times, is grout. I've had tile kitchen countertops and was pleased with their durability and look. Mine was off-white, but it never showed stains.
4) STAINLESS STEEL, COPPER, ZINC: Been around much longer than their high-tech image suggests. Early 19th century rural kitchen countertops and so-called dry sinks (drains, but no running water) were often made of copper or zinc. Heat proof, hygienic, with a "clean" look. Almost all can be made with a built-in metal sink. Stainless steel can look cold. Should be at least 1/20 inch thick, to prevent dents and buckling, 1/16 inch even better.
4A) Stainless Steel - Alloy of iron, chromium, and nickel. Industrial standard for tough, clean counters. Required for most commercial kitchen countertops. Can scratch, but most marks are unnoticeable, especially if you order a random-grain finish. A brushed finish is smoother, but shows more fingerprints. Best kitchen-grade stainless is labeled No. 304, also known as government grade.
4B) Copper - Warmest metal counter surface, also the softest. It is not scratch resistant. Fans like the way it turns a rich, golden brown with age. Impractical to keep copper highly polished, so best maintenance is periodic coat of butcher's wax or beeswax.
4C) Zinc - Starts out with the same shine as stainless steel, then gradually dulls to soft pewter-gray. Easily scratched, but everyday wear adds to patina. Wax it, like copper, for a deep luster.
My note: Stainless steel looks clean, but industrial. Make sure the color complements the colors in your kitchen. We made a top last year using dark brown Corian®with small golden flecks throughout. The client insisted on a stainless steel sink, so we built the top and oh man -- it was awful. The gold flecks clashed with the silver-colored stainless. Because the gold flecks were so small, we weren't sure at first why the whole thing looked so funky.
5) CONCRETE/CEMENT: Might not seem like a luxury choice, until you see one. Made from special concrete mixed with pigments and poured into molds. The top surface is then evened out, or screeded, and troweled smooth. After the concrete hardens for several days, it becomes extremely strong, but also quite porous. Proper sealing, followed by periodic waxing, is essential to prevent staining.
Concrete's appeal is the unlimited color choice: Colors can be mixed into any hue, and the counter can be as thick as you like -- although more than 4 inches would be quite heavy and could strain supporting cabinets and floors. The soft, burnished glow of its surface gets deeper over time; nonstructural hairline cracks add even more character.
It's also possible to inlay shells, pebbles, and other found objects, so that your counter is unlike any other. Counter/Production, in Berkeley, Calif., has developed a product called Vetrazzo, which uses recycled glass mixed into a custom body color. The surface is then ground to create a smooth terrazzo effect. They say the resulting counter is chip and crack resistant and stronger than concrete alone.
Ambitious homeowners can try making their own concrete counters using kits sold by California designer Fu-Tung Cheng. Or they can hire one of many concrete counter specialists around the country, who have turned it into a new art form.
6) SOAPSTONE/SLATE: Soapstone and slate are much softer than granite but also less porous. Slate was formed from clay on ancient sea beds and generally has a solid gray, black, or green hue. Soapstone, which is composed primarily of the mineral talc, has a similar color but often contains light striations of quartz. Both stones scratch and chip easily, especially on the edges; the marks can be sanded out or left to add character. Combined with a sink of the same material, slate or soapstone counters can create a classic farmhouse look or a sleek, refined look. It's not generally necessary to seal these stones, but a periodic application of mineral oil will make them glow.
7) GRANITE: I've never seen a granite/ES top with an invisible seam, but depending upon the fabricator's skill, his equipment, and the right color adhesive, the top could have very small, unobtrusive seams. In other words, they wouldn't stick out or be particular bothersome. If you like ES or granite, don't let seams be a deal-breaker. Just make sure the fabricator knows what he's doing.
Granite does not come with a warranty, unless the fabricator gives you one. Corian® has a ten year warranty and Hi-Macs®, 15 years. Different brands of ES have different warranties.
Granite is absolutely beautiful, hard as a rock, since it is rock, and impervious to temperatures that would melt Corian in a minute. There's really not much comparison, looks-wise between granite and anything else. I have a small piece of blue granite, Blue Pearl, from Italy, and it is the prettiest thing I've ever seen, in countertops anyway. Although some granite is porous and therefore not advisable for kitchen countertops. If you do choose to go with granite, here are a few "head's ups":
Some granite, but not all, must be sealed to prevent stains. You can probably do this yourself - it looks simple enough. I always thought it had to be resealed once a year, but just read that the new sealers only need to be applied once every two - five years. The bottom line, I guess, is that someone needs to seal some granites and do a reseal periodically, or it will stain. Engineered stone, tile, and SSA does not to be sealed.
Granite is extremely hard to scratch, but I've seen it chip, and chip badly. A couple I know remodeled their entire home. (We did the bathrooms). They entertain a good bit and wanted a showpiece kitchen, finally deciding on some hard-to-find blue granite for the countertop and island. The main top was L shaped, and ran about eight feet down one wall, and six feet down the other. Did I mention it cost $25,000? Anyway, as the installers carried the top into the house, somehow, some way, something chipped the top, which put a long, thin,surface crack right down the middle, at the 45 degree point in the 90 degree turn where the two legs met. I saw it later and actually felt a twinge of pain. There was nothing that could have been done, though. Once installed, the top was absolutely stunning. Still, you couldn't help noticing that long crack.
Granite is natural and therefore inconsistent in color, color patterns, and depth. You will want to inspect the slab used for your bath or kitchen countertops. Make sure you have the right to approve/refuse the specific slab. This is a normal and expected aspect of the process, one encouraged by the industry. I've never heard about a fabricator balking at the idea, but if he did, it would be a bad sign. With ES and SSA, this is a non-issue - the tops look just like the samples.
Granite, being so heavy and hard, makes more expensive bath or kitchen countertops. More labor costs more money, and the fabrication process can take a good bit longer than with SSA. That depends on the fabricator's skill, tools, and his schedule, of course. Good planning on your part can lessen the negative impacts there.
8) ENGINEERED STONE (ES): ES is also very attractive. It consists mainly of real rock - particles called stone aggregate, more accurately, which make up more than 90 percent of its mass. Has special properties that set it apart from granitr.
ES is made by combining the aggregate with resin and pigments, in a vibro-compaction process that binds the medium permanently. Because the mix is uniform, ES has no fissures, veins, or other imperfections that might compromise the strength of natural stone, or make it hard to match seams. Your counter will match the sample exactly -- no need to travel to the stone yard and sort through slabs. Comes in dozens of colors.
Know what you're buying: The toughest engineered stones, including Silestone®, Cambria®, and Dupont's Zodiaq® line, are made from quartz. They won't scratch or stain. Others, derived from marble and other stones, are softer, and may need sealing.
My note: The best are made up of 93% quartz and 7% man-made resin. Heavier, but not harder than granite. Doesn't need sealer. Unaffected by heat. I've seen it get scratched irreparably. ES has consistent color patterns. Your bath or kitchen countertops will look like the samples. A word of advice - if you ever talk to a stone guy, don't liken ES to granite. ES is a man-made material, and granite, as they say, was made by God. Stone people are kind of touchy about the issue ^-^
9) WOOD: Went out of favor when stone became less expensive in the 1980s. It's regaining popularity, in part due to improved sealers called watershed protectors. Wood's main appeal is its warmth. It is obviously porous and therefore not recommended for kitchen countertops.
Teak will give tops a "fine furniture" look. Teak has natural water-shedding resins, and is favored by boat builders. Too dense to be used for chopping (as on a cutting board). Other classic wood choices: cherry, walnut, and mahogany. Rock Maple is the traditional wood for chopping - it's hard, but won't damage knife blades.
Wood is available in several configurations. Wide planks can be glued together to give a tabletop look. Problem w/ wider boards - they tend to move and warp more than narrower ones do. That's why many kitchen countertops are butcher-block style -- lots of narrow strips glued together in a more stable pattern. End-grain butcher block means even less movement. Made from hundreds of small wood squares laminated together.
Additional information:
Make sure your cabinets can support the material. You may need plywood sub decking for support, which means additional cost.
Jodie Feigler
For more information describing and comparing different counter top materials:
http://www.taunton.com/inspiredhouse/pages/ih00001_07.asp
You will receive a FREE cutting board with all Corian® kitchen countertops.
Customer satisfaction is our primary goal.
